Last weekend, I went to visit the fabulous city of Lyon
France- aka the gourmet food capital of France. Not only did I go to explore this foodie paradise, I had
been in contact with a fellow Memphian (Michelle) who I learned is now living
in France through her blog, http://www.memphistanista.com/, that my mom shared
with me. I emailed her about a month ago and we decided to meet up! Let me just
say now, this is a very very small world – we even found out this weekend that
we are both friends with Benito of Bentio’s wine blog and who is the son of my
family’s good friend Mr. Al and Susan!! So crazy and we discovered this
connection while in a wine shop. Let me just say, our meeting was meant to
happen!
Michelle and Me |
I could not have chosen a better weekend to go, after a week
of grey, misty weather in Poligny, I arrived to Lyon welcomed by a sunny clear
sky paired with comfortable autumn weather! Perfect for sight seeing.
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Coolest bookstore - love the entrance |
We saw some of the main highlights of Lyon – starting with
passing through a traboule – very typical of Lyon. It’s basically a passageway
that allows you to pass from one side of the street to the other via the
building. It was originally used by the silk manufactures to transport their
products and later used during WWII to hide Jews. Pretty cool! You would never
know that a random door would be an entrance – you kinda have to know where
they are located if you want to go through.
Then we wandered around Old Lyon (Vieux Lyon) – which is
probably the most touristy part of the city, but for good reason. It’s quite quaint complete with
cobblestone streets, darling cafés on every corner, and little boutiques
peppering the streets. I really liked this area of town and we even ventured into
one of the most expensive and gorgeous hotels in the area – Cour des Loges
– to use the free restroom (very rare in France). The interior was gorgeous and
the architecture of the dining area was full of light and high ceilings –
definitely worth a trip inside.
When I return to Lyon, I will most certainly be exploring
this area more.
Basilica of Notre Dame de Fourvier |
After exploring Old Lyon, we headed up to see the famous Basilica
of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, which sits upon the top of the city and brilliantly
sparkles in the sunshine. We took
the funicular up to the top -
thank goodness, it would have been a rather steep walk! It’s an impressive
sight to behold – absolutely gorgeous! Unfortunately, the inside was covered in
scaffolding due to renovation – but despite the work, the intricate stain glass
windows were stunning and the light streaming through was lovely.
Finally, it was time for our lunch at one of Paul Bocuse’s
brasserie’s Le Nord. He has 4 brasseries around the city – Le Sud, L’Est,
L’Ouest, and Le Nord – each featuring food from the regions of France. I was
quite excited about eating here since Paul Bocuse is one of the most famous
chefs in France! Along with the 4 brasseries, which are affordable, he has The
Paul Bocuse restaurant, which has Michelin stars and is extremely pricey!
The Paul Bocuse Restaurant |
Painting of Julia Child on side of Paul Bocuse restaurant |
Now, on to my Le Nord food experience.
Le Nord had a very cozy atmosphere that was very inviting
and warm and the food featured was heavier, which reflects the traditional
cuisine of the north of France.
So I settled on the menu fixte, which included an entrée,
plat principal, and a dessert or cheese. You get a lot of food for a terrific
rate. We got 2 pots of wine - red
and white (pots a little smaller than bottles and more economical). Both were
very nice and from the Rhone valley.
For my entrée, I choose a typical Lyonnaise dish of
saucisson et pistache en brioche. Oh my was it good. The brioche bread was so
light and airy, yet full of rich flavor and that paired with the round of
sausage was just delightful.
For my plat principal, I chose the Truite de mer paired with
bacon, fava beans, and carrots. Okay, so truite means trout, so we all were
thinking a trout of the sea would be a light white fish, you know, like normal
trout! But were we in for a surprise! When I received my dish, the fish looked
and tasted like salmon!! I swear, never in my life have I even heard of trout
of the sea or salmon trout – but ladies and gentlemen, it does! Despite this
slight misunderstanding, it was quite scrumptious! The fish was perfectly
cooked and the bacon cooked with the fava beans and carrots was a brilliant
pairing.
Then for dessert (yes, I was stuffed by this point) I chose
the Fromage Blanc (White Yougurt) with raspberry sauce and applesauce. It was
delicious – so light and refreshing.
From Le Nord, Michelle and her boyfriend took me to see the
famous Paul Bocuse restaurant – it was quite a sight – especially watching the
people leave – you could just tell they were stuffed. The restaurant was
already decorated for Christmas – as is the rest of France!
Siavoche, Michelle, and Me at Le Nord |
On the way back to their apartment, we stopped at an
overlook and I saw Mont Blanc – the largest mountain in Europe! It was over 300
km away, but I still could see it and it was breathtaking!! It was covered in
snow and dappled it pink from the sunset – what a sight! I definitely have to
take a trip to see the Alps.
Mont Blanc - way off in the distance |
That night, Michelle and I had a Memphis girls’ night. It
was so wonderful to be able to converse over a glass of Rhone valley red wine
at a little brasserie about our experiences in France thus far and connect it
to Memphis – so rare to find. Plus, the wine was so smooth and warming –
perfect for an autumn night. We had a fabulous time. Plus, Lyon at night is
gorgeous. Everything is lit up and the basilica shines over the city. It’s as
though a different city comes alive at night. All the cafes are bustling with
people, the buildings take on a different appearance, and the city just shines.
Lyon at night |
Le Cafe Comptoir Abel |
Although I had a late 3 course lunch, I was in Lyon and I
had to try out the local cuisine … so we reserved a table at a typical Lyon
type restaurant – a bouchon – ABEL
(Café Compotir Abel). So a bouchon
is a type of restaurant native to Lyon that serves very traditional Lyonnaise
cuisine – like good ol’ home cooking mixed with a comfortable and jovial atmosphere.
I have to say that I am now officially a HUGE fan of this bouchon! So the
atmosphere of Abel was fantastic
- old wooden tables, cool photographs and prints on the walls, and close
tables. The only draw back was the temperature in this small bouchon – man it
was hot as a humid southern summer night – Michelle’s glasses even fogged up!
Quenelle...mmmm |
Nevertheless, I had a fantastic experience. I chose a
typical Lyonnaise dish of a Quenelle, which is basically aerated bread that
tastes like pasta but has the texture of an ebelskeiver – really light and
fluffy and full of flavor. So it takes a good 30 minutes to prepare and comes
out a lovely golden brown color and is smothered in this divine cream, cheese,
and mushroom sauce. I nearly licked my plate, but used some French bread
instead- more civilized that way…
When I return to Lyon, I will definitely be stopping by this
place again!
Lazy Sunday
Park near her home in Lyon |
Paella cooking in the market |
After strolling around a lovely park covered in brilliant
fall leaves, Michelle and I headed to the absolutely fantastic market that was
stationed along the Rhone river.
I could not believe my eyes; this market was
open air and full of vendors selling extremely fresh and interesting foods and
flowers – it was a cook’s heaven. The smells were incredible, especially the
wafting aroma of freshly prepared shrimp paella or roasting chickens and
potatoes.
Everywhere I looked, I
saw beautiful and vibrant produce, wide arrays of dried sausages and unique and
local cheeses, and even lovely selections of olives and herbs. I seriously wanted
to take it all home and whip up a brilliant meal.
Clementines from Corsica |
I’m quite jealous that
Michelle gets to experience this grand market on weekends and a smaller version
every single day – oh what a boon!
Considering Lyon is a quick train ride away from Poligny, I
was able to purchase some food goodies. I bought two typical Lyonnaise food
products: Saint Marcellin cheese – 2 for 1.80 euro as well as dried sausage – I
choose the Beaufort variety – it’s mixed with gruyere cheese. I have to say,
the cheese is quite good. It’s a type of goat cheese but has a more pungent
flavor but not too strong. I highly recommend
Dried sausages |
trying it. I also purchased some
homemade pasta – tagliatelle. Oh I prepared it last night, it was so good. I
cannot truly explain in words how much better homemade pasta is than store
bought pasta. I could taste the richness of the egg and flour, mmm. Finally, I
bought a large half loaf of rustic wheat bread – oh the flavor is fantastic and
so nice on the palette!
For lunch, Michelle fixed a delicious meal. But as an
appéro, we had garlic soaked in olive oil and herbs - it was actually quite good and not at all what I was
expecting. Not too pungent. We also snacked on some local green and purple
olives – both extremely fresh.
Then for the main course, we had a roasted
chicken, which had been raised in Bourgouge and man it was falling off the bone
tender! Then we had a purple cabbage slaw with walnuts and goat cheese – quite
easy to prepare, yet so good. Finally, ratatouille, which is a medley of
sautéed onion, zucchini, eggplant, tomato, and herbes de provence. It was my
first time to ever have ratatouille and I have to say, I am a fan. We had Côtes
de Rhône red wine with the meal. It is probably one of my favorite red wines I
have had since being in France. It is rich, warming, and very drinkable.
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Cotes du Rhone Red Wine |
I can’t wait to go back to Lyon and explore this fabulous
city some more!